How to expand your size chart to be size Inclusive
Keep Reading to Learn:
The importance of size-inclusive patterns
The step-by-step process to expand your size chart
Our top resources for accomplishing your goal
Today, we are talking all about the process of developing size-inclusive sewing patterns. The why, the how, and the next steps you’ll need to take to get started.
Why Expand your size chart?
At CPMG, we believe sewing patterns should reflect the full spectrum of body sizes, and that everyone deserves well-fitting, stylish clothes — no matter their measurements.
That philosophy is at the heart of our signature course, Confident Patternmaking and Grading, where we teach aspiring pattern designers how to draft and grade sewing patterns that truly fit.
People deserve to be able to find patterns that fit, and shouldn’t be limited by their size. Imagine a new sewing pattern coming out. Everyone is sewing it, and the style is exactly the style that would fit into your wardrobe. Its a must-sew and gets bumped up to the top of your “to-sew” list. Now imagine feeling all that excitement, and then checking the size chart, only to realize it doesn’t come in your size. While you see all the testers’ versions coming out, and everyone commenting “can’t wait to sew this one!”, all you feel is left out.
Nobody deserves to feel that way.
Especially not in 2025, where there are resources to learn how to grade for a size-inclusive range (more on that later). Gone are the days when clothes came in only a S, M, L. More and more designers are choosing to create patterns for a wide range of body sizes, and if you are not, you are losing out on a competitive advantage.
Size-inclusivity is important to a lot of consumers (not only plus-size customers), and is often a deciding factor when a customer goes to purchase. If you have a limited size chart, you are missing out on a huge sector of customers, and often leaving a bad taste in people’s mouths.
So, whether or not size-inclusivity is a value of yours (which we think it totally should be), expanding your size range is a good thing for business and should be a top priority for sewing pattern and fashion companies alike.
The Process
When it comes to Size-Inclusive sewing patterns. There are a few very important steps
1. Size Inclusive Grading
The most important step is to begin with a grading process that is proven to work well across a wide size range. In our program Confident Grading we teach using proven size-inclusive grade rules that are tested and proven to work across a wide size range.
2. Fit Tester
After grading out your pattern, it is essential to test your pattern on a fit tester who is in the top portion of your size-range. You can opt to use a real body, or a mannequin. Just remember, a mannequin cannot tell you whether something feels too tight, or how it feels when they sit versus stand, or bend their arm.
3. Adjusting the pattern based on feedback
This is a key step in the process. In order to have a great fit across the size chart, you must adjust the pattern based on the feedback you receive from your fit tester. The grade rules are a great starting point, but we cannot get a perfect fit just based on the grade rules.
4. Fit testing
Finally, the fit must be tested on all sizes. This is commonly known as “fit-testing”. This allows you to ensure that the fit on all sizes is consistent, and that there are not consistent fitting issues that are occuring.
6. Fit Adjustments for different body types
Including the most common fitting adjustments in your pattern instructions is another way to help your customer be able to get a great fit. The most common fit adjustments may include: How to adjust if you have a different cup size: SBA (Small Bust Adjustment), FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), How to blend between sizes for different waist and hip sizes, How to do a full tummy adjustment, How to do a flat seat adjustment.
Take note during fit testing on what adjustments your testers are making, or asking advice on. These are what you will want to include in your instructions.
5. Photoshoot/Models
After perfecting the pattern and fit - it is now time to communicate your pattern through the marketing materials. It is essential to showcase the pattern on people of different sizes. If you are doing a photoshoot for your pattern be sure to hire both straight size and plus-size models. People will want to see what the pattern looks like on their body type before purchasing the pattern. In addition, having plus-size models will communicate that your pattern is size-inclusive, and prove that your fit is good across the size chart.
Next Steps
It can feel overwhelming to take on every step of this process. If this is all new to you, you may consider outsourcing some of the steps.
That’s exactly what we offer with CPMG Connect - where we connect employers (you) with our skilled alumni who specialize in size-inclusive patternmaking and grading.
CPMG Connect is an entirely free service that helps connect our skilled alumni to freelance job opportunites.
What if you are ready to dive in and learn size-inclusive grading?
We have a program for you!
In ‘Size-Inclusive Pattern Grading’, We teach you:
how to grade sewing patterns using a straightforward method that can be applied to any pattern of any size.
We’ll show you how to:
Use Adobe Illustrator for patternmaking (no prior experience necessary!)
Digitize your paper patterns
Develop a size chart for your brand and evaluate those of other brands
Create grade plans that can be applied to any size chart, any grade interval, and that work beautifully to develop a wide, inclusive size range (and also translate to CAD pattern grading software)
Use the tools that turn Adobe Illustrator into a powerful pattern grading software
If you have been looking for a Size-inclusive pattern grading course, this is the sign to sign up now.
Nat Della Selva
