Patternmaker of the Month: Charlotte Van Melkebeke
This month I had the chance to catch up with CPMG Alumna, Charlotte Van Melkebeke
N: “Hi Charlotte, can you introduce yourself and tell me a little about yourself?
C: “I am Charlotte. I live in Belgium in a small town called Leuven, and besides making patterns I am a mother of two children (4y, and 8yr). That takes up most of my spare time!
N: “Tell me about your sewing & patternmaking journey. How did you get started, and why did you want to make patterns?”
C: I started sewing when I was a teenager. My mother had an old Singer sewing machine, which she taught me a few of the basics on. And then I started making wide leg trousers, trousers for myself because they were very fashionable back then, I guess, as they are now actually! It’s funny how everything comes back around.
But then, I stopped sewing for a while. I think because I was just busy being a student. So it wasn’t until the beginning of the Pandemic when I picked it back up. It was almost like a lifesaver for me because I was not in a very good head space. I had very high anxiety due to the Pandemic and the state of the world at the time, so it was really good for my nervous system to just sit down work on a project.
The funny thing is that the first project that I picked up again after years of not sewing anything was a pair of trousers. I wanted to give my husband (back then he was still my boyfriend) a birthday present, but I didn't want to go out and buy something because I was scared (of getting sick), so I decided to make him a pair of trousers instead. It was really challenging because it was a Burda pattern, which I don't know if it’s that well known in the US, but it's kind of like the big four, which means that the instructions were just awful, so I really had to plow my way through it. But it ended up working out, and he still wears them to this day.
N: I feel like trousers are one of the more challenging projects to sew, so good for you just diving into the deep end for your first project!
C: Yeah, I had no idea! And it was a dressed-up style of trouser too, so it had welt pockets.
N: Oh jeez, that is so tricky! But good for you for going for it!
So what made you want to start making your own patterns?
C: It really intrigued me how a 2d shape could be turned into a garment that is just so detailed, and I just wanted to understand more about how it all worked. There was another girl who lived in Leuven who had also done Victoria's course at the time. I started following her on Instagram. Then I saw Victoria was opening enrollment again, and I just decided, I am going to do this! It was out of pure interest and a sense of curiosity.
N: “Speaking of patternmaking, I wanted to tell you a huge congrats on the Dickinson Blouse! Tell me more about that pattern, what inspired you to create it, and anything else you want to share about it!”
C: I wanted to create a very feminine design, and I knew I wanted it to be a bit different from the rounded collar blouses I had seen before. I took inspiration from vintage clothing of the 30s and 40’s. I was also inspired by sailor style clothing, but I took that and made it more feminine and cute. A big thing for me was also the comfort of wearing, so it has slightly more ease, and is a little oversized.
N: I love all the variations you offer in the pattern, like the dress view, as well as many different collar styles! I know that takes a lot longer to create, so I definitely appreciate the many features.
Can you tell me a little more about the name of the pattern? Was that also a nod to your vintage inspiration?
C: It is inspired by Emily Dickinson, the American poet, because I actually studied English literature when I was in University. And I still love reading.
N: Do you think all your patterns will be named after authors?
C: No, I don't think so, because my next one is actually named after a Greek mythological character. But I guess, still very inspired by literature.
N: Ok I have to ask now, what is your next pattern going to be?
C: It’s a knit top and dress with a boat neckline, and side knot and twist design! I’m actually wearing it right now.
N: How do you decide what types of patterns to create? Is it based on trends, or your own personal style?
C: I think a lot of my inspiration comes from what I like wearing. As a woman who has struggled with body image all of my life, I can find it challenging to follow trends, or conventional fashion rules because I just don't feel comfortable in everything. So what I design now is what makes me comfortable and still makes me look feminine, stylish, and dressed up without being uncomfortable.
N: “I love the content you share about positive self-talk/body image. Can you talk a little more about what inspires you to share about this online?”
C: The main reason I have turned to sewing, and then later on designing as well is because honestly I've not ever felt good enough in my own skin, and I really want to inspire others to think more lovingly of themselves when they see themselves in the mirror, or in a picture.
I think that the way we talk about ourselves is an example we set for others. I think for instance of my mother. She was always super slim and never gained weight , and that was very different from me. So when she would complain that she gained some weight, I was really triggered because, what did that mean about me?
I really feel almost a responsibility towards other women to change the narrative of always talking ourselves down and, saying things like “I'm not good enough” and “I shouldn't post this picture because I have this or that thing that isn't perfect”
I really honestly believe that when we are kinder to ourselves we are just nicer people and it can really radiate out from there.
N: That is so inspiring Charlotte. Self-image is something I have struggled with as well. I was recently reflecting on how sometimes I work so hard to find the perfect outfit, haircut, pair of glasses whatever it is outside of myself to make me feel beautiful, but it is so much harder to feel beautiful just as we are.
C: Someone once asked me, it was a therapist actually, “Who do who do you get dressed for?” And that really struck me because up until that time I got dressed for others.
N: Yeah, and it's so natural right? Clothing is so connected to our culture, our identity, how we want others to see us and understand who we are in the world. People have been doing that for hundreds of thousands of years so I don't think that like we're bad people for getting dressed and thinking “Is someone gonna like like my outfit” or something like that. But it is good to remember that clothing can can be such a meaningful thing just for yourself.
C: Exactly! Its not about that you shouldn't dress that way. It’s more about what you are feeling, and why. Because often we dress for others out of a sense of fear, obligation or shame. Your style can be evolving even day to day, because it aligns with what you are wanting to bring that day, and how you want to feel.
N: “What is your favorite and least favorite part of the patternmaking process?”
C: My absolute favorite part is the idea phase: The initial drafting and the first sample. That is like magic to me. Especially seeing how little tweaks can make such a huge difference in the fit and style.
My least favorite part would be the formatting of the files because oh my god it takes such a long time to get everything in the right layers, and just getting everything nicely organized. That took me a really long time the first time around so i'm hoping the next time will be a bit smoother. I just remember I was just clicking away all day!
N: “Who, or what would you say inspires you?”
C: “I hope this doesn’t sound cheesy, but I am much inspired by Victoria. I think she's an absolute fantastic teacher. I suffer from imposter syndrome, but she just inspires so much confidence and resourcefulness in me.
N: “ Favorites - 1 sewing/patternmaking, and 1 personal/life”
c: “My sewing awl.
I use it all the time to guide fabric under the presser foot, and it's made my work much more precise.
The other thing I am loving right now is a certain kind of meditation, called a safe space meditation. You imagine being in a space that you feel completely safe and relaxed in. It helps me for instance, when I am suffering from imposter syndrome , or when I am on social media, and start to feel badly. Social media is really hard for me, but I do it anyway, and this meditation really helps me to just feel safe again.
N: “Finally, where can people find you?”
C: “ You can find me on Instagram. My handle is @charlotterachantoinette, and my website is www.charlotterachpatterns.com
Rachel and Antoinnette are both of my granny's names, by the way! Rachel was my grandmother on my father's side, and Antoinette was my mom's mom.
If this interview inspired you, check out our Confident Patternmaking & Grading Program where you can learn how to draft sewing patterns, and join our network of incredible alumni creating beautiful size-inclusive sewing patterns for all people.
Nat Della Selva
